9.26.2007

Animal Precinct

Every Tuesday I exercise with my friend Lucia, a fellow teacher, and then we go to a little local joint for ceviche. For those of you who don't know--never fear, I didn't before I arrived--ceviche is "a citrus marinated seafood salad" that is absolutely delicious and originally came from Peru (Thanks, Wikipedia!). This is one of those rituals I look forward to: a chance to get off campus, a chance to dine out (and cheaply too), and best of all, a chance to catch up with one of my favorite people.

Usually Lucia and I drive to our gym, exercise, and then drive to the restaurant, but yesterday we were feeling adventurous and decided to walk instead (thus killing two birds with one stone--transportation and exercise, all in one go!). The weather was sunny and clear, which is becoming increasingly unusual as rainy season nears its peak in November, so we wanted to profit from it. As we meandered down the road, Lucia gasped upon seeing a teeny, tiny KITTEN on the other side, about to plod right into oncoming traffic. Being the animal lovers we both are, we dashed across, and she picked up the little furball, a beautiful deep black kitten with piercing blue eyes. In Kitten #1's wake was a smaller, quieter kitten with dappled cream and brown fur. While Kitten #2 sat on the side, mewing fearfully, Kitten #1 (black) kept trying to evade me and saunter back into the road. This, Lucia and I decided, simply would not do. We looked around but saw no sign of a mother, a nest, other kittens, or anything to suggest that the kittens were on the side of the road for a reason. Unfortunately, it appeared as though they had most likely been dumped off by a local who didn't want two more feline mouths to feed. Although I love Costa Rica, there are a fair amount of people who do not treat their animals well... but that is a different story entirely.

Deciding that Kittens 1 and 2 will surely be hit by a car if we leave them alone, Lucia and I decide to transport them. I take the calmer, quieter cream-colored one, and Lucia takes the wildly-mewing and wiggling black one. I'm sure we were quite a sight: two young women, walking on the side of the road in exercise clothes, each cupping a tiny kitten (each one was probably ~8-10 in long at most) and talking to it softly in an attempt to calm them. Creamy settled down in my arms almost at once and even purred a little bit. We continued walking and stopped at a security guard stand to ask for a box. Once supplied with this little box of cardboard, we put both kittens inside and continued on our way to ceviche heaven.

Now, here you might ask-- animals? In a restaurant? Surely that is unsanitary! Well, probably. In the USA. However, you forget that I live in a developing country (I find the word "third-world" a bit too pejorative for a country with as much modernity and foreign wealth as CR has). Even in our school cafeteria, which is also open-air, there are a few cats and dogs that meander through that belong to faculty members or administrators. Just about any open-air restaurant plays hosts to dogs during your meal, be they strays or pets of guests and employees. Roy's, our ceviche place of choice, is no different. Although we picked Tuesdays arbitrarily, it just so happens that Tuesday is when Roy's receives its bountiful fresh shipment of fish for the week--caught, literally, just off the coast. In addition, the waiter every Tuesday is a sweet, friendly, and all-around adorable Tico boy named Carlos who recognizes Lucia and me by now. When we arrive, Carlos is surprised at our little kittens, but upon hearing our story, immediately offers to take one for his new house. He tells us that he has just moved in, and he cleans obsessively, but he still has mice. This is a problem, and he has been looking for a cat. He likes the creamy-tan one (the black one "is a symbol of bad luck, bad for a house") and brings us a saucer of water to give to the kittens.

In the meantime, there is a small, smiley black dog who resembles a longer, squatter Labrador observing the kittens with some trepidation. Carlos tells us that this is his dog, who accompanys him to work every day and waits for him in the back. He even demonstrates how, if he walks with a purpose (e.g. out the front of the restaurant), she trots after him almost immediately. Being avid dog-lovers ourselves (see post below re: Goldie; Lucia is Reina's owner), this endears Carlos to us even more. Also, we discover that Carlos's little dog is a little frightened of the kittens, which results in a hilarious scene of two tiny kittens chasing a full-grown medium-size dog. Blogging simply does not do it justice. The kittens are antsy in their box, so Lucia and I end up keeping one each on our laps as we eat. Yes, this is a ridiculous idea; however, before you start lecturing me on germs, I encourage you to pick up a tiny kitten sleeping on your lap (less than one month old), wake it from its slumber and endure its plaintive mews of supplication, and deposit it in a cold, hard cardboard box.

In addition to the kittens, we met a new two-year-old friend, Annika, who toddled back and forth saying "That's a nice little cat!" about each kitten. All in all, it was actually a pretty delightful scene: two kittens, a dog, and a toddler. While we sat with the felines, we befriended Annika's father, a Canadian businessman who lives here in Costa Rica, and his friend, a saucy 71 year old British expatriate with whom I spoke French. The Englishmen drove Lucia and me back to campus (cats and all), and we spent about another 30-45 minutes bringing the tiny kittens inside and trying to introduce them to Reina. Reina, for all her sweet demeanor, seemed utterly alarmed at these tiny intruders in her apartment. She seemed distinctly bothered-- had her human owner gone mad? These were invaders, unidentifiable tiny creatures, "Invasion of the Body Snatchers" style--and she sat whimpering and wagging our tail as not one, but both kittens fell asleep in my lap. When I finally woke them about an hour later (heartbreaking mews and plaintive looks included), we gently placed them in their cardboard box, now lined, and closed them in the bathroom to make them both off-limits to Reina and easier to find in the morning.

All in all, an adventure of over five hours to save two little animals' lives. And yet, isn't that what life is about? Every day is not only an adventure, but an opportunity to put a little more good in this world. One tiny positive contribution-- giving another person a compliment, picking up some trash that isn't yours, letting someone out of a parking space, nursing a wounded baby bird back to health-- it might make a world of difference. Not just for someone else, but for me as well. And I feel better for it.

P.S. Lucia and I (temporarily) named the cats "Noche" (night) for the black one and "Luna" (moon) for the cream-colored one. Noche has a home with two of our high school teachers who are married, just built a house, and want something around to catch mice, roaches, etc. That, and they want a cat to grow up with their two new (ADORABLE) puppies. Perfect.

P.P.S. My left leg is oddly, unexplainedly blue. How did this happen?

9.18.2007

¡Felicidades Costa Rica!

This past weekend marked Costa Rica's Independence Day (September 15th). I realized that I have never witnessed such celebrations anywhere outside the United States in person. I suppose it comes with the territory; another really neat fact that accompanies actually living somewhere, rather than just studying there or vacationing for a few days, weeks, or months. We had a 2-hour celebration/assembly at the school in which all of the K-6 kids participated, performing poems in Spanish, skits, and dances. We also played host to some local students from both a musical group and a dance ensemble.

The musicians played an instrument unlike anything I have ever seen; similar to a xylophone, it was small, higher-pitched, and held in one arm and played with the other arm. The dance group was co-ed, full of darling girls in brilliantly-colored skirts, and shy boys dressed in all white with straw hats and red ties. These pictures are blurry, but you get the idea. First, the girls in their vibrant skirts:


Next, the boys in their white and red:

The dancing was interesting, though I wouldn't know what to call it... a mix of Latin American styles, reminescent of flamenco and an absolute pleasure to watch. I wish I had a proper video of it, but my camera battery was starting to die as they performed. You'll have to look at the pictures and imagine the small girl (probably age 5) who shouted "Ay! Yi! Yi!" as she and the others danced, which only enhanced the authenticity of the whole thing. Here in Costa Rica they also make these neat lanterns called faroles, which are usually made of paper or cellophane and have a little candle inside. Often the paper or cellophane is decorated with the Costa Rican flag or its colors (red, white, and blue). They have a desfile de faroles where people (often children) parade through town to celebrate Costa Rica's independence. All in all, I am really glad to have been able to witness all the ticos celebrating what is possibly the biggest holiday of the year, except for maybe Guanacaste Day-- which is only emphasized more here because, well, we live in Guanacaste.

Lastly, over the weekend I went SURFING for the first time since I arrived... and I am addicted. I am even thinking that I might eventually buy a surfboard. My body was exhausted the next day, but it is easily the most exhilarating full-body workout I have ever had! You have to use your arms, legs, and especially your abs and core-- and yet it is such a blast. I only made it to my feet once (after which I promptly fell over as I tried to look at my friends and shout), but I rode several waves in on my knees, trying to get used to the board. I want to start going as frequently as possible...

Who knows, maybe I'll even be the next Cody Maverick.*

*--Major props to those of you who know this is without having to look it up. :)

9.11.2007

A Swiftly Tilting Planet

Have I really been here over a month?

The time has flown by. And yet, in some ways it feels as though I have lived here for ages: no hot water for a shower? Hot water is a delightful surprise, no longer a common expectation. Tiny millipedes running rampant in my room? They do no damage as long as I leave them alone (stepping on them releases a pungent smell that takes about 48 hours to go away totally). A torrential rainstorm breaks out midday? I always bring a pair of rubber flip-flops to wear in potential mud or rain on days I wear good shoes.

And yet, all the same, there is the limitless beauty. The unique and unnameable color the sky turns right before sunset, when all is bathed in a golden-tan glow. The frequent and seemingly endless rainbows that jet into the sky after a hard afternoon rain; they seem not so much rainbows, but a multicolored ribbon that leads straight to the stars. The beautiful span of oranges, rose pinks, lilacs, deep purples, and all manner of blues cast across the sky above the sea as the sun sets over the Pacific. And the stars! The vast night sky remains unspoilt by streetlights or high-rise buildings or anything that might diminish the majesty of the heavens. To behold the innumerable blanket of stars (and the occasional full moon) from a vantage point on a dark beach is nothing short of monumental. I highly recommend Costa Rica for those who spend their days in concrete jungles, gazing up through the smog at searchlights or skyscrapers, never seeing more than a hazy ball of sun. I may never live in an urban area ever again.

My entry title is borrowed from a novel of the same name by Madeline L'Engle, who I think may have been the first author I ever read who absolutely blew me away. In second grade I remember checking out A Wrinkle in Time from my elementary school library, attracted by the title, and after reading it, I was completely amazed. I wanted to read the book over and over again, to have the same surge of overwhelming pleasure that I later learned cannot be replicated. Better to enjoy great books the first time, and sit afterwards basking in the glow of a master at her craft. L'Engle wrote many more books that I loved and enjoyed, but I think she was the first author who ever sparked the thought, however deep in my heart, that someday, I too, might create such amazing literature for children.

There is time yet, I suppose. I am still young.

I have, however, decided to name my room's second gecko Charles Wallace.

*******



In other news, Jane Goodall, who visited last week, was fascinating and awe-inspiring; I had the pleasure of taking a picture with her and Mr. H, the stuffed monkey who has so far accompanied her to 59 countries. I also learned that Jane, though 73 years old, travels approximately 300 days out of the year-- basically 10 of 12 months. Can you imagine? I get tired when I go away for a long weekend. What an extraordinary, courageous, dedicated woman. One of my favorite quotes from her whole speech was as follows, after being asked about why she wanted to work with animals:

"I have always loved animals... When I was a child, I was fortunate to have a very wonderful teacher... this teacher taught me so much about animals, but most of all, this teacher taught me that animals have souls, and that they have emotions, and that they have feelings, too. That teacher was my dog."

I have to admit I got a little teary-eyed at this point, thinking about my own wonderful dog, Goldie, who I was blessed to know for 14 years of my life. She was a Golden Retriever, and the only picture I brought from childhood to Costa Rica is one of her and me from when I'm about 7 or 8 years old. Her nose is almost at the camera, and my arms are around her, and I look utterly, completely happy. Dogs are truly magical creatures. The picture of Goldie actually fell off my nightstand a couple days ago and the glass cracked diagonally across the frame, which I'll have to fix over Christmas break. However, after it fell, I did notice a formidable spider who was attempting to scale the edge of my bed. Maybe it was Goldie trying to protect me from a nasty spider bite? :)

Here in Costa Rica, my friend Lucia (a fellow teacher from the United States) brought her delightful 9 year old border collie named Reina (Ray-na, Spanish for "queen") with her. Rayna is one of the most well-mannered and delightful dogs I have ever met, and I am holding her to the gold standard (no pun intended) of Goldie. I'm thankful for Reina, through whom I get my quick fix of puppy love, though I'm thinking more and more that as soon as I return to the states, I want to get a dog.

The happiest I have ever been in my life was living with my parents and my dog.



9.03.2007

A Little Monkey Business (Going Ape)

Wow, so it's been a couple days, huh?

Due to generally overwhelming circumstances as of late, I've been remiss in updating this lovely blog. And as I'm sure you are all waiting with baited breath, checking your computers constantly and kept awake at night wondering if I've updated... well, I decided to indulge you. Is that how you spell baited? Is it bated? Where did that expression even originate?




Anyway, on a much more interesting and exciting note, tomorrow my school plays host to none other than JANE GOODALL!!! This is hugely exciting, because as many of you know, I worked in a comparative cognition lab for three years in college. I worked with brown capuchins (Cebus apella), who are actually a species of New World monkey that live naturally here in Costa Rica. So far, the only monkeys I've seen in the flesh (fur?) here are the howler monkeys who howl every morning around dawn. As far as a natural alarm clock goes, it sure beats a rooster. As for Jane, she has spent almost fifty years working with chimpanzees (Pan troglodytes), which are NOT monkeys. They are apes. Monkeys and apes are two entirely different types of primates. Here is Jane with one of her chimpanzee friends...




Many of the kids have asked me if Jane will bring a chimpanzee with her to speak, but they don't really seem to grasp that she is 73 years old, and also that Jane's whole platform revolves around preservation of both the species and their natural habitat. Overall, I am delighted to meet her-- one science teacher prepared a brief biography of her with the categorization as the scientist who "redefined man." She certainly made great strides not only in primatology, but in the way we view and study other species.

Lastly, we went to a BEAUTIFUL beach this weekend--Bahía de los Piratas, which means "Bay of Pirates" or "Pirates' Bay"... it was gorgeous. I'll blog more about that later when I'm a tad less exhausted.

Today the weather was sporadic rain; I think we're getting (or going to get) the fallout from Hurricane Felix over on the Atlantic side of Central America. That being said, the weather here has been strange the past few days, culminating in the sunset here this evening where everything was bathed in a bizarre tan glow. Towards the east though, a beautiful, HUGE rainbow rose from the hills that surround Brasilito. Absolutely breathtaking. And last night, when I was sitting outside chatting with two friends, I was blown away by the blanket of stars above-- it was like sitting in a planetarium. Except that it's real. It's truly amazing to be in a locale where there really are almost no lights at night except for the stars. There's nothing better than having nature remind you just how amazing the world truly is. :)